[stairman]

Ive been thinking of making all the different traps and snares I know and post pics of each. Im not sure how good they would turn out in pics but they would be set in my driveway or somewhere for visual purposes and not set in an animal run where they would be more camo'd and hard to see. None of these would be left unattended.

[tjwilhelm]

Originally Posted by Mekdad

Hey TJ, you got a pic of that eyelet.I am visual type guy

Okee Dokee,

I'll shoot a few pics tonight and post them here.

Originally Posted by mscureman

...Is the picture wire usually made out of twisted/braided stainless steel, or some other metal? Isn't twisted/braided SS supposed to be the best thing for snare wire?

I'm honestly not experienced enough to know what makes the BEST snare wire. I only know what I've tried. I've used soft steel wire, light gauge, and similar in pliability to things like electric fence wire...but thinner gauge. Not stranded. Just single strand, soft and easily bendable/workable, cheap steel wire...the kind that stays in whatever shape you bend it into.

I'll get a few photos up later tonight...right after I watch Eastwood's Gran Turino!

[stairman]

The braided wire would be very strong but hard to make an eye from. I have a dozen coyote snares that are braided 1/16 aircraft cable. With these, an eye is made from a round disc the size of a quarter bent to 90 degrees and the end crimped. They were given to me and I havent used them for nothing yet. The principle is that they wont back off once sinched. You could make cheap sinching eyes from pennies, and use some fishing leader doohickys to crimp them in place but that probablt too much work. Doubling a snare loop will also keep it from loosening up but also resists a little more when tightening, slowing it a little.

[Ron Fontaine]

Careful though, snaring is illegal in many areas and for good reason.

Back in the day, before I knew better, I did alot of snaring of rabbits in the winter as a sport and for food. It's just too easy. I used copper wire because that is what I had.

A small nail is handy to make a loop at one end - simply place the nail about an inch or so down from one end of the wire. Wrap the wire several times around the nail to make the loop, and then twist the remaining portion of the loose end around wire next to the loop.

Be sure to check your snares regularly. Unlike leg hold traps, snaring kills the animal and leaves the carcass an open invitation for an easy meal. Oftimes I found my rabbits scavenged, especially by blue jays (a species of bird) but also crows, fox, and other meat eaters. During the winter my best strategy was to get to the traps before first light, since the blue jays were my main competitor.

Your snare wire will likely come in handy for any number of equipment repairs too.

[snowshoe67]

Ron could you get some pics of the snares?

[stairman]

Agreed, snares are illegal in most states except in emergencies. They are indiscriminate and will catch fluffy or felix just as easy and then your mug may end up on the 6 oclock news

[LaRemnant]

I am no expert, nor have I ever attempted snaring an animal before (although I plan to eventually), but I am still going to reply to this post!!

From what little bit I have read, using the copper wire, is DEFINITELY for small game. It is a small thick wire that is just strong and stout enough to not break when small four legged creatures who get caught in the noose dig their back legs into the ground and pull and thrash with all their weight. If you accidentally catch a slightly larger (medium size like a racoon, or young dog), usually they can and will bite right through that metal. If you wanted to use Copper for squirrels and rodents of the sort, it will need to be fine wire, or just get some trip wire from your local vet shop. I have two spools that have dark green and yellow wire to blend in with different foliage (I would provide a link, but I just found out that the site I bought it from doesn't sell it anymore )

If you intend to catch bigger animals, you will obviously need stronger metal, such as steel cable wire. I can't remember the name of the snare (I think it is a proprietary design and will look it up after I post this), but instead of the wire being twisted one way (there are a couple of steel wires twisted together to add strength) but within this outer layer of twisted steel wires, there is an inner core of steel wires that run the opposite direction to make it that much harder for the animal to not only bite through, but to also prevent them from twisting the wire to such an extreme as to break it.

Read this thread that talked about snaring and check out the website I provided while you're at it. It has a lot of information on snaring, and some books too:

Practicing Snare Traps

Concerning the snare website, down the left side near the bottom are some survival snares. I ordered two of the three packs and a couple of books that explain all sorts of different kinds of snares but it is kind of a tough read, because they are old reprinted booklets, that were obviously written by some deep woods, mountain redneck (even though he seems fairly intelligent). His wording is strange and the drawings were a bit confusing.

When all else fails though... YOUTUBE!!!!!

PS

I am SURPRISED that no one provided a link to Ron's article on Passive Wilderness Food Acquisition. Tsk Tsk, shame on you! It made some EXCELLENT points that I never thought about!

Here it is:

http://www.survivaltopics.com/surviv...d-acquisition/

[tjwilhelm]

Gran Turino is finished...pretty good flick! So-o-o, here are the pics I just took.

Please remember that this is just ONE WAY to do it. I'm sure there are others that may work as well, or better.

This is just cheap, soft, galvanized steel wire from Walmart.

[tjwilhelm]

3 more pics...

[LaRemnant]

Hey TJ, those are some very good photos man! Thanks for the time you took doing that.